Sew What?!

Have I mentioned that it’s too hot to knit? Or the humidity? Knitting mojo is low, so I busted out the ancient Kenmore 8 for some fun sewing time. Where fun involves lots of tension issues and ill fitting clothing.

A skirt! Not without a fight, but still, it’s wearable and I’m wearing it! I got the Sew What! Skirts book for a gift last year, and I finally busted it open and attempted, wait for it, a skirt!

I had all sorts of issues with using this book to create a skirt that fit well. My main complaint is that the book oversimplifies things a ton. There’s a spread of two pages that tells you how to draft a skirt pattern to your own measurements, and the rest of the book is devoted to example skirts that use the basic formula. I feel that the drafting portion could use more details. For example, the book tells you to add 2 to 4 inches of ease to your measurements for the pattern. Well, which is it, two or four inches? I ended up sewing a muslin that was too small, then I made this skirt too large, cutting it down until it fit.

I realized that this skirt was too large after I inserted the zipper. Speaking of the zipper - looking for instructions on inserting an invisible zipper? Don’t look in Sew What! Skirts for the answer, as they don’t cover it. The sew? i knit blog has an awesome tutorial on invisibly zippering, and I finally figured out how to use my plastic invisible zipper foot!

Back to the cutting down part. I really didn’t want to rip out my wonderfully invisible zipper, so I started cutting down the other side of the skirt, a half-inch at a time, until the skirt fit. Back at step one, I painstakingly lined up the fabric pattern so that it would be perfectly centered. However, cutting down the size of the skirt on one side made the pattern off center. It’s not terribly noticeable in these photos, but I cut enough to make it look like a big, two inch mistake.

Trimming fabric from the edge of the skirt wasn’t enough - the waist was too large and the zipper stuck out, making me look larger in the hips than I already am. So I ended up adding darts to the back of the skirt, which mostly fixed the fit issues. I also dropped the front of the waistband about an inch more than the pattern called for.

For the waistband, I followed the book’s directions for the facing and understitching. The facing instructions are great, but I didn’t feel that the understitching was enough to hold the facing down. I think that understitching would work perfectly if you had the weight of a full lining to keep things in place. Speaking of linings, you better look elsewhere on instructions on lining your skirt, the book doesn’t even mention it. I can’t remember when was last time I purchased a non-denim skirt that wasn’t lined.

I wouldn’t say that this is the most flattering skirt that I own, but it’s definitely wearable. If I were starting from scratch, I would just buy a skirt pattern, make a muslin, and modify the pattern for my short waisted torso.

Jumping for joy that this skirt is done!

10 Comments so far

  1. jess - June 30th, 2008 @8:47 am

    It’s such a cute skirt, cute fabric!

    I found the zipper (and pattern) instructions in the Betsy Ross pattern I have was great (http://www.betsyrosspatterns.com/001.html). And either the Betsy Ross pattern or Sew what?! Skirts mentioned a lining in so much as “a lining is just a second skirt. Make it a couple of inches smaller.” Uh, thanks.

    [I have a linen JJill skirt that has no lining, but you are right about most other non-denim skirts!]

  2. bockstark.knits - June 30th, 2008 @8:56 am

    looks totally fab! and golly, that is one high jump!

  3. Elizabeth - June 30th, 2008 @9:07 am

    Pretty, pretty! Love that Amy Butler fabric. Nice job.

  4. robiewankenobie - June 30th, 2008 @9:23 am

    i took a class using that book, and we all had the ease problem and ended up redrafting the pattern. i used a different amy print, so it looks okay, but the fit is, uh, off somehow.

  5. Lolly - June 30th, 2008 @12:25 pm

    it turned out so well! love the fabric!
    …and what a great jump :) but didn’t that bit of exertion make you hot?

  6. Liz - June 30th, 2008 @1:40 pm

    the built by wendy books have good guidelines on linings

  7. Kristy - June 30th, 2008 @4:24 pm

    I saw your post title and I thought “yay, maybe I can do what she did because I’ve had a horrible time making a skirt that works for me”, and now I realize that we’re actually in the same boat. It looks like you were able to figure out something in the end, so good job on doing that.

  8. Mintyfresh - July 3rd, 2008 @4:10 am

    damn that was a lot of work. It really did pay off, though, because it looks really cute!

  9. nova - July 3rd, 2008 @1:28 pm

    yay! jumpity! in a fab skirt, even!

  10. Stacy - August 15th, 2008 @1:44 pm

    waaaay cute skirt! great job.

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